travel articles – DZ Gallivanter

La Digue – A Step Back in Time

November 28, 2024January 5, 2025dzgallivanter

It’s 7am on a Monday morning, when I set off to the island’s one and only open Market. The air is refreshingly cool carrying a hint of the sun’s impending warmth. In the background, I listen to the enchanting symphony of birds greeting the new day.

As I pedal down the main road, I watch locals heading to work and kids whizz by on their bicycles with their school bags neatly tucked into the rear baskets. Everyone seems relaxed and cheerful, as if nothing matters. Life is so simple here in la Digue – no morning rush or traffic jams.

La Digue – Kids heading to school on their bicycles in the early hours of the day

La Digue, the Seychelles’ third most inhabited island, is considered a marvel and a perfect destination for escapism. Its relaxed lifestyle, natural beauty and stunning beaches make it an ideal retreat for those seeking a break from the outside world.

The island’s small size makes it perfect for exploration by foot or bicycle – the main modes of transportation, along with a handful golf carts for those who prefer not to walk or ride a bike.

Golf Carts- An alternative mode of transportation in La Digue

It has one road that runs most of the way around the island’s west coast, and a small village situated next to the main boat jetty at La Passe. The rest of the island is mostly beaches and green hills dotted with charming Creole-style houses.

We arrive to La Digue around 18:30 by ferry. The trip from Mahé took around 1 hour and 45 minutes, including a short stop at Prasline. From here, we hop on the back of a big truck with seats, with a Seychellois family who are spending their weekend at the island and are kind enough to let us ride with them, as we haven’t booked transport in advance and options at the ferry station are limited. The ride is a bit bumpy, but we eventually made it after half an hour. As it’s already pitch dark, we decide to stay in for the night.

The next day, we head to Anse Source d’Argent, famous for being one of the most photographed beaches on the planet. As we approach, we are greeted by the sight of towering granite boulders, sculpted by nature and time into smooth and beautiful shapes dotted along a stretch of powdery white sand, set against emerald-green vegetation. The cotton-like sand merges seamlessly into sparkling crystal clear waters, with varying shades of blue and turquoise, inviting us for a swim to cool down from the heat of the day.

We sit under the shade of a Takamaka tree to escape the scorching midday heat, whilst enjoying fresh pineapple juices from a quaint little shack that sells drinks and snacks. It’s incredibly refreshing! Later in the afternoon, after a long swim and some snorkelling, we wander along a stretch of beautiful small beaches that form Anse Source d’Argent. The further we walk, the more beautiful the scenery gets. On the way back, we are treated to one of the most beautiful sunsets – a mosaic of colours that blend together in a spectacular display for its audience.

The following day, I set off on my bike at 7:30 in the morning with the hope of getting some fresh fruits from the local market. I didn’t realise it’s Sunday and everything is closed except for restaurants and a couple of supermarkets that open till noon. I stop at the Fish Trap restaurant for a coffee. They have a stunning view over the jetty. With soft music playing in the background, I slowly sip my steaming black coffee, savouring the sound of the waves gently hitting the shore, the freshness of the morning air and the view of fishermen’s boats dotting the sparkling sea.

Boat Jetty at La Passe – View from the Fish Trap restaurant

In the afternoon, we hop into a club cart and head to Anse Severe, in the northwest coast of the island, not too far from La Passe – the island’s main village. As we arrive, we watch this beautiful stretch of soft white sand beach with clear turquoise waters, framed by stands of Takamaka trees. Unlike the tranquil Anse Source d’Argent, Anse Severe feels livelier with its small shacks and stalls selling fresh juices and platters of tropical fruits. As the day winds down, the sky transforms into a vibrant tapestry of orange, pink, and purple hues dotted with clouds, providing a mesmerising view and a beautiful memory to end the day.

Anse Severe in the northwest coast of La Digue

The next morning, after finally getting some fruits from the local market, we go on a boat trip with Belle Petra to Grande Soeur, Petite Soeur and Felicite islands. We stop at each one for snorkelling and swimming. In Petite Soeur, we are greeted by a turtle who wants to swim with us. The waters are so clear, which give us a beautiful view of the colourful fish and underwater world. After a morning of snorkelling and swimming, we head back to shore. Greeted by heavy rains, we quickly take a club cart to Le Nautique restaurant for lunch.

Locals at La Digue’s market in the early hours of the day

In the afternoon, my sister and I take our bikes and head to the east side of the island towards Grand Anse and Petite Anse. The ride feels very tropical, going up and down a narrow road covered by lush vegetation on both sides. Parts of it are quite steep, so we get off our bikes and walk as most people seem to be doing. An hour later, we arrive to Grand Anse, where we park our bicycles and walk for a couple of minutes through a narrow path to be greeted by beautiful turquoise and blue waters and powdery white sand. The waves at Grande Anse are very strong and it’s not recommended to swim here at this time of the year due to the strong currents. It is, however, perfect for relaxing and switching off, as it’s completely isolated and all one can do here is listen to the sound of waves crushing against the shore.

From Grande Anse, we walk for 15 minutes up and down a trail through a tropical forest. Towards the end, we find ourselves on top of a hill. As we slowly go down a rocky path, a hidden gem gradually reveals itself to us, until we are faced with the most tranquil and serene beach we’ve come across so far on this island. Petite Anse is a secluded beach with fine white sands set against a dense tropical foliage. Like its adjacent neighbour, the waves here are quite strong, and it’s not recommended to swim during this time of the year. Despite this, the unspoilt natural beauty and seclusion of this beach makes it a perfect place for unwinding.

Petite Anse – If you can’t swim, you can certainly jump of happniess!

We leave this gem with a heavy heart, as it’s almost sunset and need to ride back before it gets too dark since parts of the road don’t have any lights. It’s a lot easier to ride back as most of the road is flat or downhill. As we pedal away, we watch the sky turning into a blanket of orange and purple colours and listen to the birds signing and performing a symphony, as if it’s an orchestra entertaining locals and visitors alike.

On our last day, we enjoy one last breakfast on this beautiful island and head to the ferry station to catch the 13:30 ferry. As the ferry slowly leaves the shore, we watch the island gradually disappear in the distance. It may be disappearing from our sight, but the memories of this island will certainly stay with us for life. What I realise is that La Digue is not just a natural beauty with stunning beaches; it’s also a place where life seems frozen in time. Whether by design or or not, I hope it remains a sanctuary for those seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle of modern civilisation into unspoiled natural spots.

Leaving La Digue and its surrounding islands behind

The healing island – Between the ocean and the hills

February 12, 2022February 13, 2022dzgallivanter

On a hot summer day, sitting in the middle of a lush garden surrounded by colourful plants and tropical trees, I watch bees and butterflies moving from one flower to another. In the distance, I listen to the sound of chickens clucking, dogs barking and birds singing – a symphony of its own kind – whilst enjoying a fresh breeze brushing my face. This is exactly how I pictured my escape to recover from the lockdown and the whole Covid situation, and my choice of destination couldn’t be any better.

Jardim Da Serra – A bee moving from one flower to another

Madeira is an autonomous region of Portugal that’s closer to the northwest of Africa than the southwest of Europe. Its small size, summer climate all year round and diverse natural landscapes make it a perfect European escape that can be explored easily.

According to history, back in the 19th and 20th centuries, doctors used to recommend the island’s good air and landscapes to aristocrat patients diagnosed with Tuberculosis. I’m curious to see if the island still has those healing effects – although this time for people to recover from the effects of lockdowns and Covid restrictions.

Its charm starts to attract me as soon as I spot this small drop in the Atlantic Ocean getting bigger as the plane starts to land. Surrounded by the dark blue ocean hugging its shoreline and covered with red-roofed hills and lush green mountains, I know from this moment that I made a great decision coming here.

My journey in Madeira starts in its capital Funchal – a historic city that dates back to over 500 years ago as witnessed by its grey and white dominated architecture. I wake up just before sunrise and go for a run along the waterfront promenade. Many people are already out running, walking or having their espressos in the palm-shaded coffee kiosks. I run to Pontinha, where I watch the ferry leaves to Porto Santo.

On the way back, the sun starts to rise from behind the hills, turning the sky into a blanket of orange, grey and blue decorated with drops of white clouds. I stop by the famous Mercado dos Lavradores to grab a coffee, some fruits and fresh fish for later on. Despite being the capital, Funchal is relatively quiet – slightly busier compared to the rest of the island, but one can still feel the slow movement of the day and the relaxed lifestyle.

The next day, I make my way to Camara de Lobos – a charming fishing village next to Funchal. I walk along a picturesque path, from the Lido area in Funchal – where my hotel is – to Câmara de Lobos. On the way, I pass by the famous Praia Formosa, a beach like no other I’ve seen before – black sand that glitters under the sunlight with black and shiny stones scattered along the shoreline. Few people seem to venture into the cold water of the ocean and the rest are happy to sunbathe and enjoy the warmth of the morning sun.

Praia Formosa – on the way from Funchal to Câmara de Lobos

An hour later, I arrive to Churchill Bay in Câmara de Lobos. The bay is filled with colourful finishing boats rocking side to side in the harbour, and overlooking a hill dotted with red-roofed houses. People are enjoying their lunch or a drink in the waterfront restaurants and coffee shops. A group of locals are playing cards on the side.

After indulging in a delicious lunch of Scabbard fish, I take a bus to Cabo Giaro – a viewpoint with a glass platform skywalk that is 589 meters above sea level – where I get amazing views of the island. Later in afternoon, I stroll along the small cobbled streets of the village and enjoy the relaxing atmosphere of the place – no wonder Churchill used to come here to paint.

Câmara de Lobos – the spot where Churchill used to paint

After two weeks of long walks in the pebbled beaches of Funchal and strolls along its cobbled streets, boutiques and artistic old city, I spend the next three weeks travelling through other parts of the island. Each place has its own stamp and offers different experiences.

In Porto Moniz, I head to the famous natural lava pools. The water feels very cold, but after some contemplation, I decide to go in slowly. Once inside, it feels great and therapeutic. No wonder cold-water swimming is gaining a reputation for mental and physical health treatment.

Porto Moniz at dusk – view of the natural lava pools

The next day, I set off to explore Levada da Rebeira Da Janela; one of the many Levadas – irrigation channel – walks that the island is famous for. The hike starts in the hills of Lamaceiros. “The path is safe but it’s narrow in some places, so make sure you stop when you take pictures or to look around”, the taxi driver warns me.

On a hike in the Levada da Rebeira Da Janela

As I start walking, I watch the water flowing through the levada and the beautiful surrounding landscapes – flowers of different colours, trees of varying sizes and mountains. It feels quiet and serene – with very few other hikers around and the sound of water dropping from the top of the mountains – and a great place to truly connect with nature.

From Porto Moniz, I head to the rural villages of Sao Vicente and Santana. I’m told that these are the most typical Madeiran places I can visit. In the morning, I wake up to the sound of church bells ringing and chickens clucking. I don’t even need to check my phone for time, as the bells ring three times an hour between 7am and 10pm in most places.

São Vicente – a small seaside village in the north of Madeira

Late afternoons in Santana – once all the tour buses are gone – I go and sit behind the traditional Santana houses in the centre. From here, I get a pretty nice view of colourful fields whilst watching a family of farmers collect potatoes and corn. As the sun begins to settle, it leaves behind a mix of beautiful colours – different shades of blue, orange and grey.

Santana – typical Santana houses at the Centre for Traditional Santana Houses

From Santana, I head down to Santa Cruz – a seaside town not too far away from Funchal. It’s a lot more touristy compared to Porto Moniz, São Vicente and Santana. Its seaside promenade is packed with locals and tourists alike enjoying a drink or a meal whilst watching planes taking off and landing. Not too far away from the seaside is the centre of the town, decorated with cobbled streets and Sao Salvador church. At lunch time, I sit outside in the Bilheteira restaurant facing the church and admiring this 17th century Gothic-Manueline architecture. Everyone is enjoying a nice lunch or drink with friends or family like the good old days with no covid restrictions.

Santa Cruz – a seaside town in the east of the island

My last stop is Jardim da Serra – a rural village up in the hills of Camara do Lobos – where I enjoy the quietest moments of my life in Quinta da Serra hotel, which has beautiful lush gardens and a serene atmosphere. In the morning, I walk up to Boca da Corrida – quite a steep path especially in the heat of the day, but a great way to see how people start their day here; women cleaning their homes and hanging clothes in the terraces and men working in the fields. From Boca da Corrida, I hike part of the Caminho Real da Encumeada trail to Pico Grande, where I get rewarded with spectacular views of the central mountain chains – covered with tropical trees – and valleys surrounded by high mountains.

Caminho Real da Encumeada trail – hiking towards Pico Grande

At night, the sky is as clear as the desert one. From the balcony of my room, I watch the sparkling stars and listen to the sound of locusts in the background. I wonder how can this island make me feel so far away from home and yet be so close. It’s easy to forget that I’m still in Europe, with everything that this tropical island offers – a perfect antidote to the lockdowns and covid restriction effects. One thing I discovered is that the island is great not only for recovering, but also for reenergising once’s soul and body with fresh air, healthy food and all sorts of activities one can do. It’s a place for everyone – a heaven for hikers, food lovers and history enthusiasts.

Jardim da Serra – view from the Quinta da Serra hotel over Camara de Lobos

A day in the City of Nablus

March 19, 2021June 20, 2021dzgallivanter

Deep into his thoughts, I watch Abu Massoud making a new tray of Knafeh – a savoury sweet confection of melted cheese and crispy pastry soaked in syrup. He layers the cheese slowly on the shredded wheat whilst listening to the Quran in the background. He doesn’t even notice the few tourists stopping by to take pictures. All his energy is on the making of this Nabulsian treat.

I ask Abu Massoud, in Arabic, if I can take a picture of him facing me. He looks at me with a smile and says “where are you from?”. “I’m Algerian,” I respond. He then rushes towards me with a big smile welcoming me to Nablus – a city that is famous not only for its Knafeh, but also for its olive oil and soap factories.

Abu Massoud preparing a new tray of Knafeh whilst another is being cooked.

Nablus is a historical city that lies in a valley between Mount Gerizim and, it’s counterpart, Mount Ebal. The Old City of Nablus existed, since before the Roman Era, around a spring under what is now known as the Balata Refugee Camp.

The view of Nablus from Sama Nablus on Mount Ebal.

The city had witnessed many conquests, and was ruled by different civilisations such as the Romans, Byzantines, Arabs and the Ottomans. When the Romans arrived, they completely destroyed the ancient city and built Flavia Neapolis (“New city” in Latin). In 636 AD, when Nablus was conquered by Arab troops, it was remodelled like Damascus, to the point that, in the 10th century, the geographer Al-Muqaddassi nicknamed it “The little Damascus”.

Nablus is also known for being a hotbed for Palestinian activism and nationalism. In the late 19th century, when confronted with the Turkish national movement, Zionist immigration and British colonialism, it became a political arena for the Arab national movement. It was later nicknamed Jabal en-Nar (the Mountain of Fire).

Nowadays, despite being one of the largest cities in the West Bank, Nablus is not a common tourist destination, even with everything it has to offer. At first, I wasn’t sure how safe it would be for me to travel there alone, but I got reassured by friends and the hotel personal that it’s safe. So, I take my chances, as I really want to see this culturally and industrially rich city, where religion and history meet nationalism.

I travel to Nablus, from Ramallah, using the shared taxi service. The taxi ride alone is worth the trip. Driving through the hills north of Ramallah, I get to see Palestinian villages and towns on the hillsides, and the Israeli checkpoints and illegal settlements on the hilltops.

As we arrive to Nablus’s city centre, I head straight to the Old City (Qasabah), which is a short walk away. Its architecture is dominated by Ottoman-style buildings, though one can also see elements from the Mamluk, Byzantine and Roman periods. It resembles the Old City of Jerusalem except that it’s quieter and less touristy.

Winding through its small alleyways and arcades, I find myself moving from streets with intense business activity of numerous shops and old factories, to very quiet alleys with remains of old palaces and Hammams hidden behind unassuming doorways.

The busy streets are filled with colourful stalls and smells of freshly brewed coffee, baked confections and spices; and the quiet alleys are decorated with Palestinian flags and national slogans. What strikes me about this Old City is that, despite the lack of tourists, no one tries to lure you into their shop – a common practice in Jerusalem and Hebron.

My first stop is Halaweat al-Aqsa, which is renowned for making the best Knafeh in Palestine and possibly the world. After watching Abu Massoud making a new tray with much love and dedication, it’s no coincidence if you ask anyone in Nablus where to get the famous Nabulsi Knafeh, they will point you here. This sweet treat is best eaten straight from the oven, with a freshly brewed cup of coffee. So, I indulge myself to one, before visiting the shop next door to see how the Knafeh pastry is made from scratch.

*Halaweat al-Aqsa* Shop in the Old City of Nablus

Opposite Halaweat al-Aqsa is the An-Nabulsi soap factory; one of the few factories that remain open and continue to use traditional methods for olive oil soap production – the flagship industry of Nablus. According to an article by Aljazeera, the origins of this industry stretches more than 1000 years back, but the practice evolved to an industrial scale in the 14th century.

The factory is dark inside and has cemented floors and walls, and a variety of ancient tools. The owner kindly shows me around and explains the traditional process of soap production. Just before leaving, I buy some soap – a nice souvenir to take home and a way to thank the owner for the free tour.

A pit inside An-Nabulsi soap factory where the soap is mixed.

In addition to its soap production, the Old City of Nablus is famous for its Hammams – an ancient tradition that has existed since the Roman times. At the beginning of the 19th century, it served an important part of Nablus’s social life. Nowadays, most of these baths are closed or have been converted into factories, but the two that remain open, Hammam esh-Shifa and Hammam al-Hana/ es-Summara, have been renovated in the 1990s to carry on the same tradition of offering locals and visitors a unique experience of well-being.

The alley leading to *Hammam esh-Shifa*.

I stop at Hammam al-Hana, where I’m welcomed with a cup of tea. I sit in the waiting area, slowly sipping the tea and admiring the ancient stone brick walls and the beautifully painted ceiling with its stunning architecture.

*Hammam al-Hana/ es-Summara* in the Old City of Nablus

As I leave the Hammam and continue to stroll along one of the quiet alleys, I find myself next to a widely-open green door with a young man sitting on its steps. “This is the Touqan palace. It belonged to my family for generations,” the guy tells me, “do you want to visit the inside?”. So, I follow him, where he shows me ruins of what was once the palace of a well-known family in Nablus. It was built in the 18th century by a Nabulsi scholar Ibrahim beik Touqan. Sadly, today, it’s not well maintained and could benefit from a renovation project.

Ruins of the Touqan palace in the Old City of Nablus

From the Old City, I take a taxi to Sama Nablus – a park on top of Mount Ebal. The view from here is breathtaking – a clear picture of the densely packed city with white washed houses and rising minarets covering the valley. In the distance, I spot a beautiful palace, with a stunning architecture, standing on the brow of Mount Gerizim. “It’s Beit Falasteen (House of Palestine),” the taxi driver tells me, “it’s the home of Munib al-Masri – the richest man in the West Bank, an oil tycoon and philanthropist.”

The view of *Beit Falasteen* (House of Palestine) from Mount Ebal.

From here, I head to the hallowed Mount Gerizim – a sacred mountain to the Samaritan community; one of the oldest and smallest religious communities in the world. The mountain is home to the most ancient religious tradition in Palestine, and the Middle East in general, which goes back to the time of the Kingdom of Samaria. Samaritans believe that Mount Gerizim is the first piece of land created by God and that Adam was created from the earth of this mountain. They also believe that, on this mountain, prophet Abraham sacrificed a sheep instead of his son Isaac. Hence, they make pilgrimage here every year, on the seventh day of Passover, to commemorate the sacrifice.

“Samaritans have similar secular traditions as Palestinian Arabs,” the taxi driver tells me. “They speak Arabic and we Arab Palestinians get on with them very well,” he continues. I later discover that although the Israelis have granted them special status, Samaritans remain attached to their Palestinian identity and institutions. In fact, those who are living in Nablus enjoy full national and civil rights as their fellow Palestinians, and they even have the right to be part of the Palestinian Legislative Council.

Today everything is closed on the mountain, as it’s the holy festival of Sukkot. The taxi driver; however, is able to get me inside the Samaritan museum, which is a great place to learn more about the history and culture of this community. The ceiling of one of the rooms is decorated, in the form of a tent, with fruits – mostly citrus, and vegetables. “This is a common tradition for this holiday,” the taxi driver tells me, “every household has the same decoration in a room or a tent in their garden for Sukkot”.

A Samaritan ceiling decorated with fruits in preparation for the celebration of Sukkot (Feast of the Tabernacle)

The history of the Samaritan community is fascinating, and as much as I want to spend more time exploring this holy mountain, it’s time to go back to the city centre to visit Jacob’s Well.

Inside one of the rooms in the Samaritan museum.

Jacob’s Well is believed to be constructed by prophet Jacob. According to Christian tradition, it’s the place where a Samaritan woman gave Jesus some water. It’s now located inside a Greek Orthodox Church and is surrounded by magnificent paintings done by the monks who work there.

The Greek Orthodox Church built on top of Jacob’s Well.

As I pass the main entrance, I find myself in a quiet lush garden of complete serenity, away from the busy streets of Nablus. I sit on a chair and admire the architecture of the Church before going inside.

The inside of the Greek Orthodox Church where Jacob’s Well is located.

It’s now time to tear myself away from this beautiful city. A city with layers of history that get uncovered slowly as one moves from one corner to another. I leave behind a place with many religious tales; a place that is fighting hard to protect its identity. At the end, Nablus is not just the city of Knafeh and olive oil soap production, it’s also a city with great historical significance and a place where religious faiths come face to face with nationalism.

Practical Information

How to get to Nablus – The best way to get to Nablus is from Ramallah, using the shared taxi service from the Central Service Station (2nd level of the parking garage) – very close to the Manara square. The journey takes 1.5 to 2 hours depending on the traffic and checkpoints. The taxis run frequently; they normally depart when all 7 passenger spaces are filled.

How to get around Nablus – Most sites of interest are within walking distance from the city centre, where the taxis stop. To get to Mounts Ebal and Gerizim, it’s best to hire a taxi .

What to wear – Nablus is a conservative city, much like the rest of the West Bank. It’s important to dress moderately and avoid wearing shorts and sleeveless tops.

The Hammams

Hammam esh-Shifa – En-Nasser street in the Old City of Nablus. Opens daily for men except Tuesdays and Sundays (8am-5pm) for women. Built in 1624 by the Touqan family. Best to contact them before travelling to confirm opening times and days as these might change.

Hammam al-Hana – Jadet al-Yasmina street in the Old City of Nablus. Opens daily for men except Tuesdays (8am-5pm) for women. Best to contact them before travelling to confirm opening times and days as these might change.

The West Bank: Ten reasons to put it on your travel bucket list

February 16, 2021January 21, 2024dzgallivanter

The day I told people I was going to the West Bank, I got incredulous looks and moments of silence before I heard someone saying “Wow! Interesting choice of destination! Are you sure it’s safe to go there?”.

In reality, I was also skeptical. What’s meant to be a land of spirituality, holiness and historical richness has been in the midst of the biggest political crisis and under occupation for decades.

However, once you set foot there, it’s a different story. You will find it hard not to be moved by the myriad of beautiful landscapes, the spiritual magnetism of the place and the generosity of the Palestinians.

If the West Bank hasn’t made it to your travel bucket list yet, here are ten reasons why it should whether you are looking for a spiritual journey or an adventure to satisfy your curiosity.

1. The Old City of Jerusalem: A historical journey inside its walls

Bab el-Amoud/ Damascus Gate – One of the eight entrances to the Old City of Jerusalem.

As you step inside the 16th-century Ottoman wall surrounding the Old City of Jerusalem, you get transported back into the pages of history, where past civilisations lived and layers of ancient architecture and monuments still stand.

The Old City is a labyrinth of small alleyways filled with traditional souks and colourful merchandise. It’s divided into four quarters: Armenian, Christian, Jewish and Muslim – each with its own style.

The Muslim quarter is the most vibrant with its small eateries and street markets. Like its neighbouring Armenian and Christian quarters, it has preserved its traditional character. The Jewish quarter, on the other hand, has lost its historical style to a modern look.

2. Jerusalem: Home to some of the holiest sites in the world

Holy Sepulchre – Devoted worshipers kneeling at the stone that’s believed to be the place where Jesus was anointed after being crucified

Most people visit Jerusalem for spiritual reasons, and the ones who don’t can still sense its spiritual magnetism through its religious sites and devoted pilgrims. The Old City of Jerusalem is home to a plethora of religious sites that are of great significance to the three Abrahamic faiths.

Whether you’re visiting for religious reasons or not, it’s hard not to be moved by the sight of Muslim worshipers flocking the doors of the Al-Aqsa mosque (Dome of the Rock) at prayer times; Christian pilgrims kneeling at the stone on which Jesus was anointed inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre or Jewish supplicants wailing at the Western Wall.

***3. Sunset from the Austrian Hospice***

The Austrian Hospice is a Christian guesthouse, situated in the middle of the Muslim quarter in the Old City of Jerusalem. It was built in 1854 for pilgrims by the Archbishop of Vienna, who still owns the institution today.

At sunset, you can witness beautiful views, from its rooftop, of the sun settling down slowly over the limestone buildings of the Holy Land, whilst listening to the call to prayer echoing from different angles – a perfect place to unwind after a long day of sightseeing.

4. Bethlehem: A biblical jewel

Bethlehem is one of the most touristic cities in the West Bank. It’s flooded with Christian pilgrims and non-religious tourists alike who come to visit the birthplace of Jesus.

The city is dominated by a unique limestone architecture, traditional souks and a relaxed atmosphere. The heart of the city, Manger Square, is filled with tourist groups and local by-passers admiring the surrounding religious sites such as Church of the Nativity, Milk Grotto and Omar Ibn al-Khattab Mosque.

The old part of the city is filled with bazaars, eateries and food markets where visitors can admire colourful artisan work and watch the daily life of Palestinians.

5. The Wall of Separation: A first-hand look at the struggle of the Palestinians

The Wall of Separation is a living reality of the Palestinian struggle, and depending on which side of the wall you stand, you will hear a different story- a wall of apartheid versus a security barrier.

To the Palestinians, it’s a wall of apartheid and occupation that affected many families economically and emotionally when they lost their lands. To the Israelis, it’s a security barrier. The reality is that it’s a giant and ugly concrete wall twisting like a serpentine separating the West Bank from the rest of the country.

Opposite the Walled Off Hotel in Bethlehem, the wall has been turned into a canvas for artists and non-artists alike to express their hope for a resolution, dismay of what is happening and feelings of oppression.

6. Ramallah: A cosmopolitan city inside a turmoiled region

Ramallah is the administrative capital and the most vibrant city of the West Bank. The street leading to the crowded Manara Square – with its iconic four-lion statues – is filled with nice smells of freshly baked bread and coffee waft coming from shops.

It’s home to the Yasser Arafat museum and mausoleum, which is an inspiring place to look at over 100 years of Palestinian history and to get an insight into the life of the late Palestinian president.

Mahmoud Darwish is another museum to visit, on the hilltop of Al Masyoun. It was built in tribute to the famous Palestinian poet Mahmoud Darwish.

7. Nablus: The little Damascus of Palestine

The city of Kunafeh, olive oil and soap factories is nestled in a valley between Mount Gerizim and Mount Ebal. Its old city is a labyrinth of narrow Ottoman-style alleyways filled with colourful vegetable stalls, spices and coffee shops.

Visitors can also go to Mount Ebal for beautiful views over the city, and Mount Gerizim to get an insight into the culture and history of the Samaritan community – one of the oldest and smallest religious communities in the world and which consider Mount Gerizim as a sacred place.

Nablus is also home to Jacob’s Well, which is believed to be constructed by prophet Jacob. Today, it’s found inside a Greek-Orthodox Church with a quiet lush garden. According to Christian tradition, it’s the place where a Samaritan woman gave Jesus a jug of water.

8. El-Khalil (Hebron): Home to al-Haram al-Ibrahimi and a living example of Israeli settlements inside the West Bank

El-Khalil (Hebron) is an interesting city to visit not only because it’s home to al-Haram al-Ibrahimi, but it’s also the place where the impact of illegal settlements can be seen in the heart of its centre.

The alleyways of its old city are covered with metal nets and plastic sheets to protect shop owners and by-passers from the garbage and stones thrown at them by the settlers, who occupy the houses above the shops.

The old city feels like a ghost town, as most shops are now closed. The ones that remain open are; however, a delight to shop from and look at beautiful embroidered materials and local artisanal products.

Al-Haram al-Ibrahimi is the key site in El-Khalil. It’s believed to be the resting place of prophet Abraham and his family, hence its great significance to all three Abrahamic religions and the reason for the tensions inside this city. It’s split into two parts with a wooden door and a bullet-proof window; one part for Muslims and the other for Jewish people.

9. Culinary richness of Palestine

Palestinians take pride in their gastronomic landscape and consider it part of their identity and heritage. A Palestinian culinary experience is an attraction that you can indulge in small eateries or fine dining restaurants. The dishes vary in style from Mezzas, to meaty mains like Maklouba and delicious deserts like Kunafeh.

10. Hospitality of the Palestinians

The Palestinian hospitality is famous in the Arab world and it’s very real. As a visitor, you will be flooded with warmth and invites for coffee or tea, which sometimes gets extended to dinner invitations. Don’t be surprised or alarmed by these gestures – hospitality has been a trait of the Palestinians for generations. Nowadays, it’s a way for them to tell their story over a drink or a meal.

Dubai Metro: Where are all the women?!

January 3, 2021April 6, 2021dzgallivanter

It’s just after 6pm on a Saturday evening. I’m standing in the middle of a packed Metro carriage going from Dubai Marina to Burj Khalifa. I suddenly realise that there isn’t a single woman in my compartment or even in the next one. I start to wonder if women actually take the Metro here or if it’s just a coincidence that I’m travelling at a time when no other woman in Dubai decided to take this train! What are the odds?!

I carry on with my journey as normal. No one says anything to me, which is a good sign. I get the odd stares from now and then, which makes me feel uncomfortable. Someone offers me his seat, which I kindly decline, as funnily enough the seat has a “Do not use” sign due to Covid-19 restrictions.

I finally get to my destination and on the way down the escalator, I see few women. What a relief! Women do take the Metro! It’s just that there aren’t many of them and by coincidence they were all in a different carriage. After all, the population density here is quite small and it’s likely that there are more men than women.

Ok! I’m satisfied with the explanation that my brain has just produced. So, I carry on with my evening as normal – shopping, dinning and enjoying the water fountain shows next to Burj Khalifa.

On my way back, I get on the last carriage of the Metro. Head down busy reading the news on my phone when I suddenly hear a female voice saying “Excuse me sir, you are in the wrong carriage. This is a women and children only carriage!”. Aha! I lift my head up and see the carriage full of women apart from the one guy, who seems to be a young British tourist. He blushes and disappears so quickly to the next carriage whilst mumbling some apologies.

My dilemma has finally been resolved. It felt like finding water in the middle of the desert! Women do take the Metro in Dubai. It’s just that they prefer to use the female-only carriages, which were originally intended for use during rush hour.

Due to their popularity, they became permanent, which seems to be a welcome move as you hardly ever see any woman on the mixed carriages. They are well posted with pink signs – at least for those who lift their heads up and look around!

As much as I’m relieved to know that I wasn’t the only woman on the train and that I was just on the wrong part of it, I wonder if the segregation is actually a good idea and why it’s so popular!

Whatever the reasons, I have to admit that I felt more comfortable in the female-only carriage – at least you don’t get the odd stares. One thing for sure though is, if you’re still single in Dubai, the Metro is definitely not the place to meet your future partner!