Blog – DZ Gallivanter

La Digue – A Step Back in Time

November 28, 2024January 5, 2025dzgallivanter

It’s 7am on a Monday morning, when I set off to the island’s one and only open Market. The air is refreshingly cool carrying a hint of the sun’s impending warmth. In the background, I listen to the enchanting symphony of birds greeting the new day.

As I pedal down the main road, I watch locals heading to work and kids whizz by on their bicycles with their school bags neatly tucked into the rear baskets. Everyone seems relaxed and cheerful, as if nothing matters. Life is so simple here in la Digue – no morning rush or traffic jams.

La Digue – Kids heading to school on their bicycles in the early hours of the day

La Digue, the Seychelles’ third most inhabited island, is considered a marvel and a perfect destination for escapism. Its relaxed lifestyle, natural beauty and stunning beaches make it an ideal retreat for those seeking a break from the outside world.

The island’s small size makes it perfect for exploration by foot or bicycle – the main modes of transportation, along with a handful golf carts for those who prefer not to walk or ride a bike.

Golf Carts- An alternative mode of transportation in La Digue

It has one road that runs most of the way around the island’s west coast, and a small village situated next to the main boat jetty at La Passe. The rest of the island is mostly beaches and green hills dotted with charming Creole-style houses.

We arrive to La Digue around 18:30 by ferry. The trip from Mahé took around 1 hour and 45 minutes, including a short stop at Prasline. From here, we hop on the back of a big truck with seats, with a Seychellois family who are spending their weekend at the island and are kind enough to let us ride with them, as we haven’t booked transport in advance and options at the ferry station are limited. The ride is a bit bumpy, but we eventually made it after half an hour. As it’s already pitch dark, we decide to stay in for the night.

The next day, we head to Anse Source d’Argent, famous for being one of the most photographed beaches on the planet. As we approach, we are greeted by the sight of towering granite boulders, sculpted by nature and time into smooth and beautiful shapes dotted along a stretch of powdery white sand, set against emerald-green vegetation. The cotton-like sand merges seamlessly into sparkling crystal clear waters, with varying shades of blue and turquoise, inviting us for a swim to cool down from the heat of the day.

We sit under the shade of a Takamaka tree to escape the scorching midday heat, whilst enjoying fresh pineapple juices from a quaint little shack that sells drinks and snacks. It’s incredibly refreshing! Later in the afternoon, after a long swim and some snorkelling, we wander along a stretch of beautiful small beaches that form Anse Source d’Argent. The further we walk, the more beautiful the scenery gets. On the way back, we are treated to one of the most beautiful sunsets – a mosaic of colours that blend together in a spectacular display for its audience.

The following day, I set off on my bike at 7:30 in the morning with the hope of getting some fresh fruits from the local market. I didn’t realise it’s Sunday and everything is closed except for restaurants and a couple of supermarkets that open till noon. I stop at the Fish Trap restaurant for a coffee. They have a stunning view over the jetty. With soft music playing in the background, I slowly sip my steaming black coffee, savouring the sound of the waves gently hitting the shore, the freshness of the morning air and the view of fishermen’s boats dotting the sparkling sea.

Boat Jetty at La Passe – View from the Fish Trap restaurant

In the afternoon, we hop into a club cart and head to Anse Severe, in the northwest coast of the island, not too far from La Passe – the island’s main village. As we arrive, we watch this beautiful stretch of soft white sand beach with clear turquoise waters, framed by stands of Takamaka trees. Unlike the tranquil Anse Source d’Argent, Anse Severe feels livelier with its small shacks and stalls selling fresh juices and platters of tropical fruits. As the day winds down, the sky transforms into a vibrant tapestry of orange, pink, and purple hues dotted with clouds, providing a mesmerising view and a beautiful memory to end the day.

Anse Severe in the northwest coast of La Digue

The next morning, after finally getting some fruits from the local market, we go on a boat trip with Belle Petra to Grande Soeur, Petite Soeur and Felicite islands. We stop at each one for snorkelling and swimming. In Petite Soeur, we are greeted by a turtle who wants to swim with us. The waters are so clear, which give us a beautiful view of the colourful fish and underwater world. After a morning of snorkelling and swimming, we head back to shore. Greeted by heavy rains, we quickly take a club cart to Le Nautique restaurant for lunch.

Locals at La Digue’s market in the early hours of the day

In the afternoon, my sister and I take our bikes and head to the east side of the island towards Grand Anse and Petite Anse. The ride feels very tropical, going up and down a narrow road covered by lush vegetation on both sides. Parts of it are quite steep, so we get off our bikes and walk as most people seem to be doing. An hour later, we arrive to Grand Anse, where we park our bicycles and walk for a couple of minutes through a narrow path to be greeted by beautiful turquoise and blue waters and powdery white sand. The waves at Grande Anse are very strong and it’s not recommended to swim here at this time of the year due to the strong currents. It is, however, perfect for relaxing and switching off, as it’s completely isolated and all one can do here is listen to the sound of waves crushing against the shore.

From Grande Anse, we walk for 15 minutes up and down a trail through a tropical forest. Towards the end, we find ourselves on top of a hill. As we slowly go down a rocky path, a hidden gem gradually reveals itself to us, until we are faced with the most tranquil and serene beach we’ve come across so far on this island. Petite Anse is a secluded beach with fine white sands set against a dense tropical foliage. Like its adjacent neighbour, the waves here are quite strong, and it’s not recommended to swim during this time of the year. Despite this, the unspoilt natural beauty and seclusion of this beach makes it a perfect place for unwinding.

Petite Anse – If you can’t swim, you can certainly jump of happniess!

We leave this gem with a heavy heart, as it’s almost sunset and need to ride back before it gets too dark since parts of the road don’t have any lights. It’s a lot easier to ride back as most of the road is flat or downhill. As we pedal away, we watch the sky turning into a blanket of orange and purple colours and listen to the birds signing and performing a symphony, as if it’s an orchestra entertaining locals and visitors alike.

On our last day, we enjoy one last breakfast on this beautiful island and head to the ferry station to catch the 13:30 ferry. As the ferry slowly leaves the shore, we watch the island gradually disappear in the distance. It may be disappearing from our sight, but the memories of this island will certainly stay with us for life. What I realise is that La Digue is not just a natural beauty with stunning beaches; it’s also a place where life seems frozen in time. Whether by design or or not, I hope it remains a sanctuary for those seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle of modern civilisation into unspoiled natural spots.

Leaving La Digue and its surrounding islands behind

The healing island – Between the ocean and the hills

February 12, 2022February 13, 2022dzgallivanter

On a hot summer day, sitting in the middle of a lush garden surrounded by colourful plants and tropical trees, I watch bees and butterflies moving from one flower to another. In the distance, I listen to the sound of chickens clucking, dogs barking and birds singing – a symphony of its own kind – whilst enjoying a fresh breeze brushing my face. This is exactly how I pictured my escape to recover from the lockdown and the whole Covid situation, and my choice of destination couldn’t be any better.

Jardim Da Serra – A bee moving from one flower to another

Madeira is an autonomous region of Portugal that’s closer to the northwest of Africa than the southwest of Europe. Its small size, summer climate all year round and diverse natural landscapes make it a perfect European escape that can be explored easily.

According to history, back in the 19th and 20th centuries, doctors used to recommend the island’s good air and landscapes to aristocrat patients diagnosed with Tuberculosis. I’m curious to see if the island still has those healing effects – although this time for people to recover from the effects of lockdowns and Covid restrictions.

Its charm starts to attract me as soon as I spot this small drop in the Atlantic Ocean getting bigger as the plane starts to land. Surrounded by the dark blue ocean hugging its shoreline and covered with red-roofed hills and lush green mountains, I know from this moment that I made a great decision coming here.

My journey in Madeira starts in its capital Funchal – a historic city that dates back to over 500 years ago as witnessed by its grey and white dominated architecture. I wake up just before sunrise and go for a run along the waterfront promenade. Many people are already out running, walking or having their espressos in the palm-shaded coffee kiosks. I run to Pontinha, where I watch the ferry leaves to Porto Santo.

On the way back, the sun starts to rise from behind the hills, turning the sky into a blanket of orange, grey and blue decorated with drops of white clouds. I stop by the famous Mercado dos Lavradores to grab a coffee, some fruits and fresh fish for later on. Despite being the capital, Funchal is relatively quiet – slightly busier compared to the rest of the island, but one can still feel the slow movement of the day and the relaxed lifestyle.

The next day, I make my way to Camara de Lobos – a charming fishing village next to Funchal. I walk along a picturesque path, from the Lido area in Funchal – where my hotel is – to Câmara de Lobos. On the way, I pass by the famous Praia Formosa, a beach like no other I’ve seen before – black sand that glitters under the sunlight with black and shiny stones scattered along the shoreline. Few people seem to venture into the cold water of the ocean and the rest are happy to sunbathe and enjoy the warmth of the morning sun.

Praia Formosa – on the way from Funchal to Câmara de Lobos

An hour later, I arrive to Churchill Bay in Câmara de Lobos. The bay is filled with colourful finishing boats rocking side to side in the harbour, and overlooking a hill dotted with red-roofed houses. People are enjoying their lunch or a drink in the waterfront restaurants and coffee shops. A group of locals are playing cards on the side.

After indulging in a delicious lunch of Scabbard fish, I take a bus to Cabo Giaro – a viewpoint with a glass platform skywalk that is 589 meters above sea level – where I get amazing views of the island. Later in afternoon, I stroll along the small cobbled streets of the village and enjoy the relaxing atmosphere of the place – no wonder Churchill used to come here to paint.

Câmara de Lobos – the spot where Churchill used to paint

After two weeks of long walks in the pebbled beaches of Funchal and strolls along its cobbled streets, boutiques and artistic old city, I spend the next three weeks travelling through other parts of the island. Each place has its own stamp and offers different experiences.

In Porto Moniz, I head to the famous natural lava pools. The water feels very cold, but after some contemplation, I decide to go in slowly. Once inside, it feels great and therapeutic. No wonder cold-water swimming is gaining a reputation for mental and physical health treatment.

Porto Moniz at dusk – view of the natural lava pools

The next day, I set off to explore Levada da Rebeira Da Janela; one of the many Levadas – irrigation channel – walks that the island is famous for. The hike starts in the hills of Lamaceiros. “The path is safe but it’s narrow in some places, so make sure you stop when you take pictures or to look around”, the taxi driver warns me.

On a hike in the Levada da Rebeira Da Janela

As I start walking, I watch the water flowing through the levada and the beautiful surrounding landscapes – flowers of different colours, trees of varying sizes and mountains. It feels quiet and serene – with very few other hikers around and the sound of water dropping from the top of the mountains – and a great place to truly connect with nature.

From Porto Moniz, I head to the rural villages of Sao Vicente and Santana. I’m told that these are the most typical Madeiran places I can visit. In the morning, I wake up to the sound of church bells ringing and chickens clucking. I don’t even need to check my phone for time, as the bells ring three times an hour between 7am and 10pm in most places.

São Vicente – a small seaside village in the north of Madeira

Late afternoons in Santana – once all the tour buses are gone – I go and sit behind the traditional Santana houses in the centre. From here, I get a pretty nice view of colourful fields whilst watching a family of farmers collect potatoes and corn. As the sun begins to settle, it leaves behind a mix of beautiful colours – different shades of blue, orange and grey.

Santana – typical Santana houses at the Centre for Traditional Santana Houses

From Santana, I head down to Santa Cruz – a seaside town not too far away from Funchal. It’s a lot more touristy compared to Porto Moniz, São Vicente and Santana. Its seaside promenade is packed with locals and tourists alike enjoying a drink or a meal whilst watching planes taking off and landing. Not too far away from the seaside is the centre of the town, decorated with cobbled streets and Sao Salvador church. At lunch time, I sit outside in the Bilheteira restaurant facing the church and admiring this 17th century Gothic-Manueline architecture. Everyone is enjoying a nice lunch or drink with friends or family like the good old days with no covid restrictions.

Santa Cruz – a seaside town in the east of the island

My last stop is Jardim da Serra – a rural village up in the hills of Camara do Lobos – where I enjoy the quietest moments of my life in Quinta da Serra hotel, which has beautiful lush gardens and a serene atmosphere. In the morning, I walk up to Boca da Corrida – quite a steep path especially in the heat of the day, but a great way to see how people start their day here; women cleaning their homes and hanging clothes in the terraces and men working in the fields. From Boca da Corrida, I hike part of the Caminho Real da Encumeada trail to Pico Grande, where I get rewarded with spectacular views of the central mountain chains – covered with tropical trees – and valleys surrounded by high mountains.

Caminho Real da Encumeada trail – hiking towards Pico Grande

At night, the sky is as clear as the desert one. From the balcony of my room, I watch the sparkling stars and listen to the sound of locusts in the background. I wonder how can this island make me feel so far away from home and yet be so close. It’s easy to forget that I’m still in Europe, with everything that this tropical island offers – a perfect antidote to the lockdowns and covid restriction effects. One thing I discovered is that the island is great not only for recovering, but also for reenergising once’s soul and body with fresh air, healthy food and all sorts of activities one can do. It’s a place for everyone – a heaven for hikers, food lovers and history enthusiasts.

Jardim da Serra – view from the Quinta da Serra hotel over Camara de Lobos

London in lockdown: the City in pictures

April 7, 2021April 7, 2021dzgallivanter

A year since London went into its first lockdown, I decided to visit the City during rush hour to see what has become of the capital’s historic financial district.

Before the lockdown, the City was one of the busiest spots in London on weekdays. In the early mornings and late afternoons, you would find city workers, with their fancy suits and shiny shoes, flocking the numerous entrances of Bank, London Bridge and Liverpool Street stations.

Today, closed doors, deserted streets and tourist-less landmarks have become the norm. Cyclists, buses and skateboarders have replaced black cabs, corporate cars and city workers in suits. What was once known as the vibrant Square Mile has become more like a ghost town of high-rise buildings and shiny surfaces.

In these pictures, I tried to capture the spirit and show what the City looks like during lockdown on a working day.

One thing for sure, if New York is labelled as the city that never sleeps, London should be labelled as the city that never gives up. Determination, positivity and refusal to give in to the current depressing situation is what I gathered from this short afternoon in the City – a place I have strong connections with, having spent all my professional career between its offices.

A cyclist and a couple of buses on London Bridge – instead of the pre-lockdown heavy traffic

A cyclist in the empty streets near Bank station

The empty entrance of Bank station that is usually packed with commuters at this time of the day

People enjoying the sun in front of the Royal Exchange

Two women enjoying the sun in front of the Royal Exchange

The Square Mile during rush hour – empty streets that are usually buzzing with city workers at this time of the day

Few commuters outside Bank station – this place is usually packed with commuters and traffic

The empty court and closed doors of Leadenhall Market

Millennium Bridge – almost empty except for few runners, cyclists and pedestrians

People wearing masks on Millennium Bridge

A skateboarder by St Pauls Cathedral – the streets of the City have been taken over by Skateboarders who are enjoying the deserted streets

A ferry station in South Bank with its closed ticket office

Friends enjoying a drink on the riverside – with everything else closed, riversides and parks became people’s gathering spots

A cheerful street busker waving at me – his smile and music filled the almost deserted South Bank with vibes of positivity and hope

Playing tennis against the Tate Modern wall, when tennis courts were closed – what a determination!

South Bank without the tourists. Usually, this area is filled with tourists and Londoners enjoying a drink or dinner after work

Runners on the Queens Walk heading towards Tower Bridge

Sunset over the City. Another lifeless day had passed – how many more days or months before life comes back to the Square Mile

All pictures taken by the author on 22 March 2021.

Dear Corona!

March 23, 2021January 21, 2024dzgallivanter

I want to write the letter to say, thank you! Thank you for coming to our lives and for making 2020 the most memorable year for generations to come – one hopes!

Thank you for making this year almost as memorable as the black decade of Algeria’s civil war!

Thank you for making 2020 even more memorable than the year when Muslims were confused with psychos!

Thank you for making us feel that the 2008 financial crisis was just a small storm and that the big tornado came 12 years later!

Thank you for making us understand the importance of freedom and independence!

Thank you for not discriminating against us and for reaching out to the poor and the rich, the black and the white, the young and the old, the women and the men!

Thank you for making us realise that life and freedom can be taken away from us at any time and anywhere!

Thank you for teaching us that face covers are not as scary after all! They are worn out of respect for others or for the almighty god!

Without you, I wouldn’t have truly understood the meaning of being locked down like the people of Gaza!

Without you, I wouldn’t have seen people fighting over toilet paper like the starving people of Yemen and Somalia fighting over food!

Without you, I wouldn’t have understood what it meant to be locked away from the homeland and close family like the refugees of Palestine, Afghanistan, Syria, Myanmar, Iraq and many many other countries.

Without you, I wouldn’t have understood the true meaning of freedom of movement and that money isn’t always the solution to problems!

Without you, I wouldn’t have truly understood how an invisible little thing can destroy the rich and the powerful!

So thank you again! I just hope that your lessons will be cherished and will educate the ignorant, the humble and the powerful, and open our hearts and eyes to those in need!

Yours truly,

A Corona victim

Dubai Metro: Where are all the women?!

January 3, 2021April 6, 2021dzgallivanter

It’s just after 6pm on a Saturday evening. I’m standing in the middle of a packed Metro carriage going from Dubai Marina to Burj Khalifa. I suddenly realise that there isn’t a single woman in my compartment or even in the next one. I start to wonder if women actually take the Metro here or if it’s just a coincidence that I’m travelling at a time when no other woman in Dubai decided to take this train! What are the odds?!

I carry on with my journey as normal. No one says anything to me, which is a good sign. I get the odd stares from now and then, which makes me feel uncomfortable. Someone offers me his seat, which I kindly decline, as funnily enough the seat has a “Do not use” sign due to Covid-19 restrictions.

I finally get to my destination and on the way down the escalator, I see few women. What a relief! Women do take the Metro! It’s just that there aren’t many of them and by coincidence they were all in a different carriage. After all, the population density here is quite small and it’s likely that there are more men than women.

Ok! I’m satisfied with the explanation that my brain has just produced. So, I carry on with my evening as normal – shopping, dinning and enjoying the water fountain shows next to Burj Khalifa.

On my way back, I get on the last carriage of the Metro. Head down busy reading the news on my phone when I suddenly hear a female voice saying “Excuse me sir, you are in the wrong carriage. This is a women and children only carriage!”. Aha! I lift my head up and see the carriage full of women apart from the one guy, who seems to be a young British tourist. He blushes and disappears so quickly to the next carriage whilst mumbling some apologies.

My dilemma has finally been resolved. It felt like finding water in the middle of the desert! Women do take the Metro in Dubai. It’s just that they prefer to use the female-only carriages, which were originally intended for use during rush hour.

Due to their popularity, they became permanent, which seems to be a welcome move as you hardly ever see any woman on the mixed carriages. They are well posted with pink signs – at least for those who lift their heads up and look around!

As much as I’m relieved to know that I wasn’t the only woman on the train and that I was just on the wrong part of it, I wonder if the segregation is actually a good idea and why it’s so popular!

Whatever the reasons, I have to admit that I felt more comfortable in the female-only carriage – at least you don’t get the odd stares. One thing for sure though is, if you’re still single in Dubai, the Metro is definitely not the place to meet your future partner!